If 2023 had been a sound, it would have been a groan. As I am writing my year-end review nearly into the second quarter of the next year, I am still putting out fires from 2023. Despite being our best year ever, it was hard one, possibly even our most difficult yet.
At seven years into the business, we honestly thought we had already ridden out a lot of the disasters that can face a new small business. Holy smokes were we wrong. In fact, late 2022 I had actually turned to Nick and said (while knocking on wood) “I think we finally did it, I think we are finally safe”. Then I got covid and lost my sense of smell and taste almost entirely for 9 months. During this time, I also lost the supply chain to make one of our beloved existing products lines unexpectedly and had to immediately begin work on a new product to replace it before our other supply ran out (no pressure). An already formidable task made almost impossible considering my primary way to evaluate was gone. Unfortunately, while developing this product I also learned about the existence of flavor modulating compounds. These compounds act in a way with our own biochemistry to make flavor molecules imperceptible or seemly disappear. Very cool science, very shitty timing for learning about it. Huge shoutout to Troy, Nick, and Jake for being my sensory triage team during this time. After much labor and learning, Hiems gin was eventually born, and now nearly a year and a half into development, I am finally 100% happy with it. Shortly after finally nailing the Hiems recipe, on the morning of my ten-year anniversary with Nick, we were just departing to a getaway (the very first we have celebrated in 9 years) we received an alarming call from my associate distiller Jake. Our crop of wheat was suddenly infested with what appeared to be small caterpillars. This bug does not normally appear in crop damage this far north and is almost unheard of in silo storage (which made the installation of our new silos much less exciting). Unfortunately, our wheat had to be wasted. Not to be outdone, next the blue corn crop harvest failed due to immaturity and an unknown fungal blight. This was unfortunately due to the haze from the Canada wildfires, as this greatly impacted the amount of sunshine received by the crops. This was bitterly disappointing to both us and the farmer who had put so much work into the crop, especially considering it was all beyond our control. 2023 also brought with it much mandatory learning in the fields of electrical, plumbing, engineering, and biochemistry as every single piece of major equipment in production failed in some way, repeatedly. Some problems were small, some were tear-inducing, most were ill-timed flukes. In addition to these larger matters, were the everyday complications of soaring inflation, supply chain interruption, and copious changes to the law. The mental whiplash from these cannot be understated. Despite a shitstorm of challenges, 2023 wasn’t all doom and gloom. Early on, we celebrated becoming B corp certified, something that Nick had spent a lot of time and energy on, and something that we both feel extremely proud of. This certification acts as a sort of third-party moderator to make sure that we are meeting our promises to the community, staff, and environment. We also built a new rickhouse! Very exciting and also extremely essential to the continuation of our business (the old barrel storage area is completely stuffed). A good portion of this project was funded by a generous grant from MDARD in exchange for us to continue to use local grain and provide quality local jobs to support the Michigan economy. Less flashy but equally important, we also managed to retain and continue to professionally grow some really excellent employees. This is something we feel a lot of pride in, knowing that the greater labor market was quite grim. 2023 also brought several successful product releases including the Vespera Mel, and Hiems, while also allowing for the development of a new barrel gin and an herbal liqueur for 2024. All in all, this blog I suppose has several purposes. A time capsule, because more than a decade into this journey I already feel as if I am forgetting so much. A cautionary tale, because it doesn’t matter how prepared, how informed, or how old your business is; something can always come out of left field and swipe you off your feet. The trick is to just keep going. An apology, if Nick and I look a little bedraggled, if our smile doesn’t quite reach our eyes, if we have seemed distracted or not as friendly as normal, please know it’s not you, we are just a little worn down at the moment. It’s been a wild few years, but if there is anything I have learned in all of this, it’s that everything is temporary, including hardship, and hardship can in fact be a gift, because its reward is wisdom.
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I have been radio silence for over a year, but don’t mistake my silence for quiescence. In the last year we have built 2 new bars, an outdoor seating area, acquired the property next door for future endeavors, tripled the capacity of our equipment, and made an integral hire of a key production member. We have hired and retained extremely talented staff, volunteered time and skills to furthering positive growth and diversity in the industry, and continued to foster learning and optimization of working with local agriculture. We lost a distillery dog, and gained a distillery kid. We have squirreled away new products and managed (mostly) to keep up with demand for existing ones.
We didn’t do all of this in a vacuum. We had a lot of help, and made some mistakes. The help we received strengthened our loyalties and allowed us to turn around and lift up those who were next in line; the mistakes were valuable lessons that breed wisdom that can only come from experience. Growth is really hard, whether its personal or professional. It is also exhilarating. We are proud of this place and all of the people who ultimately make it special, and the time has come for us to pause and hold a little more space for reflection and gratitude. Growth at this point seems inevitable, but in order to preserve what we value we need to make sure every decision we make as a company helps us achieve our mission and vision, even if it isn’t the one that is most financially prudent. That means slowing down, just for a minute, and carefully planning for the next five years. Just as crucially, it means stopping and being grateful for the first 5. - Geri The end of the year is upon us, and I think I can speak for most of us when I say good riddance and take a colossal sigh of relief. 2020 was really challenging, both personally and professionally. There were times when I was dizzy from the nearly constant pivoting and when the anxiety and uncertainty was nearly crushing. But, we didn’t lose hope. In my mind I was constantly reminded of the old Aesop Fable “The Oak and the Reeds”, a story that essentially tells the importance of flexibility over shear strength during difficult times. This mindset, and the extreme level of support from our community and patrons turned what would have been a category 5 hurricane into a tropical depression for us. Don’t get me wrong, things were definitely less than ideal but like any serious crisis, opportunity and learning can always be found (even if they are really fucking hard). That being said, here is a bunch of good shit that 2020 brought us.
So, lots of really wonderful things have happened in 2020 for us. There will always be a shadow in my memory with the mention of this year, but I refuse to let it all be dark. Keep bending everyone, the wind has to die down eventually. Happiest of New Years to you all, we literally could not have done it without you. Sincerest regards and long distance hugs, Geri & Nick I am a wholehearted believer that our mixologists could stand up and be counted among the best in their craft. Our staff is incredibly passionate and talented, and they just keep outdoing themselves with every menu. They are truly excellent, and their compensation should reflect that. That being said, I don’t suppose I have ever really offered an explanation why our suggested tipping starts at 20%. A lot goes into every experience at Ethanology. Don’t let their relaxed demeanor fool you, these guys are chefs with a liquid medium, and true professionals. The amount of time, research, and consideration that goes into making every single cocktail is nothing to shrug at.
$2.57. That is the average amount you will pay with a 20% tip on each cocktail on our current menu. Let’s talk about what that buys you as it is so much more than pouring a few purchased liquors and mixers together and slapping a garnish on top. The following is our current weekly prep checklist for the fall menu: Orgeat, House Vermouth, House Citrus Liquor, Cold Brew Coffee, White Russian Simple Syrup, Pistachio Vodka Infusion, Amish Butter Fat Wash Vodka, Banana Bread Simple Syrup, Turkish Coffee, Allspice Liquor, Hibiscus Tea, Chai Tea, Cantaloup Liquor, Acorn Squash Simple Syrup, Lemon Simple Syrup, Fresh pressing Lime/Orange/Grapefruit/Apple/Lemon Juices, 17 different tinctures/bitters, lemon-balm salt, several culinary foams, prepping well over 50 different pantry items, and inventory management. Some of these items are extremely labor intensive taking several hours to create or have very specific timing with steps taking several weeks. The amount of planning alone is impressive. And all of this happens before you ever meet them for a cocktail, all of it happens before the traditional bartending duties. This does not even come close to covering the work this team does. They are also coming to the farm on off days to help with bagging grain for production of spirits, weekly deep cleaning of the entire building, tending fires, hauling spent grain, and providing extensive $1 tastings and education on our products. On personal time, this team is breaking down and analyzing every meal and drink they consume, exploring novel flavor production and integration through reading and online research in order to keep providing new and incredible cocktails. They spend time actively seeking out inspiration. You are paying $2.57 for their 24 hour a day passion and research. $2.57 for a small delicious piece of hand-crafted art. A small price to pay when you really consider all the invisible extras. For those of you who may be wondering about the rest of their compensation, you can rest easy. We understand the value of our staff, are more than competitive, and will continue to reward excellence. Thank you for your continued generosity and camaraderie with all staff members, watching your excitement for our creativity and having your support is so essential and makes the entire operation worth the work. -Geri Note: This blog was written pre-covid and has not been edited to reflect the current state of affairs.
I am pretty pumped to say that we are growing and forming a strong solid foundation. The last three years of production (yep, we hit our 3 year production anniversary) have been a hellacious learning curve for us, employees, contractors, growers, and pretty much everyone involved. I’m not going to lie, there were times where things were paper-thin fragile, and it was scary. It feels like it has been a decade. Here’s the thing though, we didn’t do this alone. You probably already know about our stellar employees Troy and Corwin, I could (and probably will) write an entire blog on these two. The help I want to write about now though, is the stuff that is behind the scene, done quietly, frequently, and out of the goodness of their heart without compensation. Here’s a list of some of those unsung heroes, buy them a drink or at least give them a high five next time you see them, they certainly deserve it. “Yoda of all things Distillery” John Mckee This guy is my lifeline and one smart fucker. He is owner and operator of Headframe Spirits in Butte MT. I was just lucky enough to have this guy answer a rouge desperate e-mail of mine several years ago, and even luckier for me? He keeps answering them. He has fielded questions on everything from what type of valve to use for greater control on a dephlegmator to how to work with your spouse every day without becoming homicidal. Truly one of the greatest resources in our toolbox and instrumental to any and all of our success. “House Engineers” Mr. Bill and Stocky Stockhausen Geeze, where do I even start with these two, they have been so integral to the process from even before day 1 and we were just lucky enough to meet them by chance. To sum it up, they have nearly done it all… fixing pretty much everything mechanical and improving the stuff that just sucked to begin with. This is second only to the moral support they provided and continue to provide. Pure and simple, we could have not opened Ethanology without their support, guidance and 100+hr work weeks prior to our grand opening. “Contingent Employee and Favorite Doggo Uncle” Logan Thomas It’s rare to find someone universally dependable. Logan started here as a customer, continues as a contingent (saves our ass when we are short handed) employee, and has become family. He is quite literally always willing to lend a helping hand, whether it be with dishes, barrel mobilization, or showing some love to Ethanology’s hardest working 4-legged members. “Chief of Muscle” Jarrett Hale What a stand-up dude we have here. First off, out of the goodness of his heart this guy shows up nearly every single Tuesday mash to help us haul out grain bins, taking time out of his own schedule solely to help us. I can’t begin to explain how generous this is, and how thankful I am. Secondly, he comes packaged with one of my favorite women, Caitlin, who frequently entertains Sofi and Mabel on long days. “Custom Fab and Maintenance” Kyle Lalone Kyle has pretty much been helping us with small disasters from the beginning. He has fabricated, re-fabricated and just generally fixed countless things through his welding and carpentry skills. He and his wife (who he met at the distillery) have become lifelong friends and he continues to help us with our never-ending list of 20-minute jobs by providing borrowed tools, time, and expertise. “Master of Perfect Timing” Andrew Broadus Andrew has uncanny timing when showing up at the distillery. It’s almost as if he has built-in struggle radar. He has managed to show up probably on a dozen occasions just as we realize we need an extra set of hands for lifting/balancing/stabilizing etc. He has always been willing to help with these tasks, and as a bonus lend his opinion on cocktail development. “Purveyor of Blood Sugar” Jan Toscano This delightful woman has routinely showed up with hugs and baked goods for years now. She has kept myself and my staff fed during some of our busiest days. Her cinnamon rolls are the stuff of legend, and so is her kindness. “Savior of Auto Logistics” Joe Fischer I feel genuinely bad for everyone out there with a crap neighbor. Mine is truly terrific. This guy has been an integral part of supporting our mission from the beginning. What are the chances that our neighbor happens to be the premier provider of insurance geared specifically for the complex needs of distilleries? I’d say we got lucky, but if you are familiar with the term “God wink”… I’m going to go out on a limb and say luck had nothing to do with it. This guy is also good enough to allow for overflow parking in his lot next door, something which has truly made a difference in the success of our business and the positive experience of our customers. “Captain of Pyrotechnics” Dan keeps the fires stoked, literally. Nights at Ethanology can get chilly and this guy keeps us nice and toasty by regularly cutting, splitting, delivering, and stacking wood for our fire places. In addition to this, he brings a fantastic attitude and light heartedness that warms our souls too. Ethanology has always been greater than the sum of its parts, thanks in large part to those mentioned, as well as countless others who have showed us kindness and generosity along the way. It takes a lot to make a distillery, and more importantly it takes a lot of special people to make it worth having in the first place. Big big thanks. -Geri Lefebre To begin, I would just like to say that I am truly sorry for not being a better ally, for not seeking to understand, and for turning my head when things got uncomfortable. For staying silent.
It wasn’t long ago that I found myself firmly rooted in the “all lives matter” camp. I remember when the black lives matter campaign first began, thinking repeatedly to myself… wait, isn’t this just adding to the division? Now, it is my absolute privilege to sit here and write this blog and put it on record just how wrong I was. First, I want to change the word “privilege” to the phrase “I am grateful for” (hopefully this can help us white folk relate a little easier.) I am grateful that I have not just one, but multiple safe spaces to be writing this blog from. I am grateful I know my local police force will protect and aid me in my daily life. I am grateful I have money to buy a computer so I can express my feelings. I am grateful I had a safe and funded public school with a strong English program that taught me to read and write effectively. I am thankful that this education allowed me to get into a college where I could attempt to move up the socioeconomic ladder. I am grateful I had loans available to me (and I had people to guide me to them) to go to college and start this business. Sound familiar? It should if you are a middle to upper class white person. The thing is, privilege is just the stuff that non-minorities consider normal things to be thankful for in their everyday lives. The truth is, that minorities still don’t have access to these same privileges, because of systemic failures in our economy, our culture, and our laws (and our unwillingness to uphold those laws.) That is why, yes, all lives matter, but right now we need to be talking specifically why black lives matter. We need to start the conversation. The key to solving any problem is to first admit there is one, and second to concentrate on the problem itself (not the periphery). I don’t have all the answers, and as a white person, I can’t even fully understand… maybe ever, and that’s okay, but I, we have to keep trying. Ethanology has taken a public stance on the black lives matter movement, and frankly, we are disappointed to see that a lot have chosen to stay silent. The banality of evil is something that we all should be considering heavily in our current circumstances. American society has been complicit in the silence for too long. The business woman in me says it isn’t appropriate for a business to be getting involved in politics. The woman in me says fuck that, racism is not political, it is every American’s duty to stand up for life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness, for everyone. I did not open my own business to behave like a corporate cog in the wheel. Am I scared I might lose patrons? Absolutely. Every business is fragile right now because of COVID-19, but I am certain I would rather lose some customers than die of the shame and guilt of telling my grandchildren I stood by and said nothing, while people were being murdered in the street. As a business owner who knows real people and businesses hurt by the rioting and looting happening, I don’t condone this behavior. I do think I understand it though. If someone systematically murdered my husband in the street because of his skin color… my rage would have no ceiling. Angry people do bad things sometimes, we are all guilty of this because anger makes us impulsive. More importantly, the riots would not be happening if there wasn’t anything to be angry about in the first place. I think if we all try to meet this with more compassion, we can start to heal. We need to stay focused on the real problem. Don’t stay silent. Today is an excellent day to be brave, find your voice. This impacts all of America, even Northern Michigan. -Geri & Nick Today is our third anniversary, and I nearly forgot about it until I received a text message from my sister. I am not sure what revelation is more strange to me, the fact that we have made it to a concrete milestone for all new businesses despite incredible odds against us, or the fact that it doesn’t feel all that important at the moment. This is not what I thought it would look like.
Three years ago, I was waiting for this day with a boatload of anticipation and anxiety. Three years was the magic number for me, the date that would mark that this business was going to work, and I probably wasn’t going to lose my house and everything we have built. Now it seems very very small. Now I am met with overwhelming amounts of the polar feelings of gratitude and guilt. I am so thankful we are still here and feeling so many things for those who aren’t. It’s visceral, and I am heartbroken for America right now. Now is not the time to celebrate, we have a lot of work to do. As part of this milestone, the Ethanolo¿y Family is taking time to evaluate how we can be part of the solution, not the problem. We are promising to take a harder stance on things like racial inequality, environmental justice, and the preservation and promotion of art and science. We have a duty of care to be better, because there are a lot of people and businesses that will never get that chance. Thank you to all of our customers for your generosity and endless amounts of both personal and professional support over these last three years, YOU have made all the difference. -Geri, Nick and Ethanology Family What if I told you that you could turn $20 into $1000 and all you had to do was spend it. Sounds like a scam right? It’s not. In fact, it is a simple and extremely important economic principle known as the multiplier effect of money. In times like these, my survival instincts tend to lead me back to the principles I learned in business school, but don’t worry, I’m still making bourbon too. The urgency of spending money locally is more important than ever and I’m going to explain how in a perfect scenario a very small purchase by you in a local business can end up being a massive investment in the community. Let’s assume for a minute we aren’t in a pandemic and business is being conducted as usual (this is solely for ease of explanation, and doesn’t change the principle of the matter at all)
You spend $20 on a bangarang pizza from Chef Charles. ... This money is transferred to payroll and is payed out to an employee, Amy, as wages, and Amy decides she would like to buy dinner and a drink from Cellar 152 for $16 (she tips the server Dan $4), then what the heck, Amy decides to join Dan (whose shift just ended) for a drink at town club. Amy uses an additional $8 of other money to buy 2 drinks. Dan uses the $4 he made plus an addition $4 from other tips to buy two drinks. Together they tip the bartender an additional $4. The next day Dan receives his paycheck from Cellar 152, $16 of the total amount in it were from the money Amy originally spent having dinner there. Dan uses this money to gas up his car at the local gas station who in turn has an account payable to Townline Ciderworks (and so the $16 in gas gets used towards the 100 dollars invoice due for canned cider) The next day Chris uses his $4 from tips plus he collects his paycheck, $16 of which was funded by Dan and Amy buying drinks there. Chris decides he needs to go grocery shopping with $20 at the Village Market, but first he decides he wants to stop for a $5 latte at Planetary Coffee... ... Are you starting to see the significance? From your one-time $20 pizza purchase you just sent a ripple of money throughout the community to the tune of $112 directly and $21 through indirect additional spending… all in less than 24 hours, meaning that over the course of a week your $20 will trigger nearly $1000 commerce. This makes you pretty much a fucking magician. Now for those of you who are skeptical, I understand… this is a model that assumes 100% of the money is spent locally, and it gets spent instead of saved. This is for conceptual purposes only so calm down asshole, I can’t do a perfectly realistic one because this shit is complicated and my motivation for mathing is at an all time low. The important thing is, your local dollar spent makes a hugely massive difference. It is why both personally and professionally we strive to support local, and why anyone can make a difference. Thank you for your continued support, we are looking forward to serving you all again in the future. Stay well. -Geri Dear Fellow Quarantiners:
So, COVID-19 is putting a bit of a wrench into a whole lot of systems right now. I think we are only just beginning to see the physical/emotional/economic fallout of this whole thing. Gloom and doom aside, I am so hopeful to see the community banding together to help each other and strangers, it is truly inspiring and beautiful. We have all been forced to make decisions over the last few weeks to try and balance our responsibilities to self and community, and let’s be honest… most everyone is just doing the best they can. Given this, I just want to take a moment an appreciate the distilling industry as a whole, that has stepped up in awesome ways, I am humbled to be part of such a great community. Originally, Ethanology had a plan, then it changed… then it changed again… about a dozen times. Ultimately, we talked things over with staff and have chosen to close our doors at this time. I have made the choice to isolate in a more serious manner as I have a heart condition that forces me to take this very seriously. There have been many people asking about hand sanitizer. First off, big kudos to those in the industry who have been able to step up and fulfill this need. We have been watching the situation closely and now that it is legal for us, we are figuring out how to best contribute. Unfortunately, our small size (limited fermentation capacity) is impairing us from acting in a quick manner. As most of you know, we only produce one batch at a time and do not purchase bulk grain neutral spirits (high proof required to make hand sanitizer). Furthermore, since we have to mash, ferment, and distill vodka first, it will take at least 4-5 weeks before this can become a possibility, as our current bottled spirits are too low in alcohol to be used in the approved FDA recipe. At this time, we are exploring options to work with a compounding pharmacy that has the glycerin, hydrogen peroxide, and denaturing agents necessary to formulate the FDA approved recipe and allow the sanitizer to be produced in a way accessible to hospitals etc. In the meantime, to try and do something positive we have chosen to pair up with our local soap maker and give away samples at the tasting room (while we were open) and now via mail. Stay tuned and stay safe out there, and as always thanks so much for your continued support. Geri Two events this last weekend forced me to think about money in my business, where it comes from, and where it goes. The first was a group of customers (I’ll use that term loosely as they haven’t purchased anything in several visits) leaving the business disgruntled after being firmly told that in order to stay and listen to live music at the business, they would need to make a purchase of at least a soda. The second was an extremely generous customer who openly offered to invest in the business.
The first event got me thinking about social norms, what it means to “support” a business and the value of business offered amenities. The second got me thinking about the value of a dollar and who really is invested in this business. My conclusions were closely interwoven. Conclusion 1: in order to really support a business, you need to spend money at it or offer something value added. After all, businesses need to make money in order to operate in the first place. Conclusion 2: Nick and I are pretty adamant about not wanting investors (despite this being so flattering), but when you really think about it… isn’t every person who spends any money here, in fact an “investor” in our business? All of this led me down an unexpected (but highly important) rabbit hole. If you have spent a dollar here at Ethanology in the last 3 years, where has that money gone? Conclusion 3: an incomplete list of just the local and Michigan based entities (both for profit and charitable) that your dollar has allowed us to help support.
... and that is just what I can come up with off the top of my head. And I have to say, it feels fucking great to know that doing what feels like the right thing personally has also translated to be the right thing for the business. My gratitude for your support is massive, investing in our business has allowed us to become part of this community and hopefully add value to the people and the other businesses around us. At the end of the day, please stay and buy that soda… it makes a real difference, and at the very least only costs you $0.67 an hour to enjoy live music and support another awesome Michigan company Northwoods Soda. Big Love, Geri Lefebre Head Distiller Chief of Dog Petting Etiquette Enforcement Officer |
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